For every Blackpool or Brighton there’s a Filey, Ilfracombe or Worthing – here's where to enjoy the faded glory of lesser-known seaside gems
Summer at the seaside is a British institution that, arguably, started when Scarborough launched itself as a spa resort in the 18th century following the accidental discovery of therapeutic spring waters. Sea bathing became fun and fashionable as well as “healthy”, and was given a royal boost by the visits of the Prince of Wales (later George IV) to Brighton.
Coastal towns with sandy beaches, and often a good harbour – particularly if there was a decent rail connection – began to flourish as holiday destinations with a choice of boarding houses and hotels. Resorts competed to build the most attractive parks, piers, promenades and entertainment centres. During Scarborough’s Victorian heyday, what is now called the Spa Complex was considered the most popular music hall outside London.
But while flagship towns such as Blackpool, Brighton and Newquay have adapted to 21st-century holidaymakers’ demands – hi-tech amusements, cocktail bars, shiny marinas and arty quarters – other seaside resorts have faded. Faded from memory, perhaps, but not in reality.
Take Filey, Lowestoft, Ilfracombe and Worthing, for example. They may not have the boutique hotels, hipster hangouts or big-ticket attractions of their neighbours but they still have their share of innate charms. Flamboyant and rich architecture from their glory days often remains: an elegant terrace decked out with stone balustrades and Doric columns, ornate detailing on promenade seats and fancily carved lampposts, or an elaborately decorated beachfront shelter.
Gardens that were originally created for “taking the air” are still kept neat and colourful with scenic twisting paths, “surprise views”, terraces and bandstands – and more often than not, pavilion tearooms.
In Morecambe, the blinding-white, Art Deco curves of the town’s Midland Hotel still glow above the seafront. Saltburn’s Victorian lift still glides gracefully between the lower and upper “proms” while the preserved West Somerset Railway, a country branch line of the old Great Western Railway, continues to puff happily between Minehead and Bishops Lydeard near Taunton. Other resorts remain proud of their piers – Worthing’s 1930s “streamlined Moderne” version, for example – and who knew that Felixstowe (better known for its container port) now boasts Britain’s newest pier, after the recent refurbishment of its original Edwardian construction? Spend time exploring and you could be rewarded with the unexpected.
The crypt of Hythe’s Norman church, in St Leonard’s, contains Britain’s largest collection of human skulls; Harwich does a good trade in seal-watching trips; Ilfracombe hides a seafood restaurant that glints with a Michelin star, while Tynemouth’s King Edward’s Bay is home to a cool “fish shack” in two repurposed containers.
So, put away your preconceptions and take the less-travelled coastal route. Don’t be in a hurry when you arrive – and be prepared to be charmed.
Mother Nature has almost taken away the raison d’etre of Grange-over-Sands. On the northern edge of Morecambe Bay, it has been at the mercy of winds and changing sea currents over the past 20 years, which have left it overlooking a swathe of saltmarsh rather than sand.
But the views across the waters to Morecambe from the Edwardian promenade (see if you can spot the carved squirrels in the delightful benches) fill the soul with good thoughts about fresh air, brisk walks and tearooms. The town, trumpeted as the Torquay of the North in its Edwardian heyday, has plenty of all three. The promenade, which runs alongside the still-used railway line (check out the station for its Victorian glass canopy and carved ironwork), passes banks of neatly tended flowerbeds – including the Ornamental Gardens with its duck pond and Park Road Gardens with its bandstand (look out for Sunday afternoon concerts in summer). Keep going and you will discover the lido, once a glorious Art Deco affair, now boarded up (find a gap to squint through) and awaiting its future.
Stoutly independent shops line the handful of streets – Higginson’s butchers, Fletcher’s greengrocers, Johnston’s gift and toy shop – while under the glass canopy on Yewbarrow Terrace, jolly with hanging baskets, Hazelmere Café and Bakery is one of those tearooms you thought long gone: table service, prettily served sandwiches (made with homemade bread), pies, scampi, proper puddings and cakes that will leave you biting your lips with indecision.
Stay: The Grange Hotel (015395 33666; grange-hotel.co.uk) has Italianate flourishes, terraced lawns and rich, Victorian-era styling. From £107.
While Scarborough is big, brash and boisterous, Filey, eight miles to the south, is happy to glide quietly along in its slipstream. Here, there is no big wheel, gaudy strip of amusement arcades or shouty fish and chip shops angling to grab your attention. Instead, Filey is happy to play the sensible older sister to its extrovert sibling.
The sands, stretching in a golden curve five miles south to Reighton Gap, are soft, flat and cry out for Enid Blyton-esque games. Grouped tidily at the northern end is a small clutch of takeaway stalls, beach shops and one amusement arcade plus pale blue and white beach chalets. Walk south along the promenade and even the crazy golf course (giant shells, fish and lobster) and paddling pool are pin-neat.
At the far end, stately Victorian buildings in white and cream line the Crescent. Once the hotels and guest houses of choice for holidaymakers (including the Archbishop of York and minor aristocracy) who eschewed Scarborough’s raucousness, they look freshly buffed with their wrought-iron balconies and shiny brass nameplates. Equally shiny are the royal-blue and gold-painted lampposts and bandstand in the Crescent Gardens opposite. Tucked beneath the bandstand, and easily missed, is Angela’s Tearooms set in the former Sun Lounge. The friendly welcome, spotted tablecloths, homemade vanilla slices and sheltered sea-facing forecourt whisk you back to long-forgotten summers when the sun always shone.
Stay: The White Lodge Hotel (01723 514771; whitelodgehotelfiley.co.uk) is a sleekly furnished, light-filled, Victorian villa with sea views. Rooms from £134.
You want space, salty air and a sense of freedom? Venture north, my friend. These two seaside resorts, which obligingly segue into one another (Tynemouth is generally considered slightly posher), offer four beaches: the breezy sweep of Whitley Bay, sheltered Cullercoats, appropriately named Longsands, and tiny St Edward’s Bay cupped in the shadow of the 11th-century Tynemouth Priory. Surfers, swimmers, dog-walkers, rock-poolers, kite-surfers and brave picnickers can all find a home.
Shake the sand from your feet and you will find simple pleasures: Lost World Adventure Golf (with prehistoric creatures as obstacles), Jungle Wipeout (inflatable slides and assault course), a Pirate Quest maze and Di Meo’s ice cream parlour (Italian, family-run). Take a walk across the tidal causeway to St Mary’s Lighthouse, non-operational since 1984, and spot seals, eider ducks and golden plovers. If it is a weekend, there is fun to be had rummaging through the vast all-sorts market spread beneath the green-and-cream Victorian ironwork canopy of Tynemouth station.
Hovering over Whitley Bay like a mirage is the blinding-white edifice of the Spanish City. Opened in 1910 as an entertainment complex, it boasted the largest dome in Britain after St Paul’s Cathedral. After an ignominious period of failed plans, its brilliantly restored white and gilded dome is now a place to eat fish and chips and sip champagne. Alternatively, book supper at Riley’s Fish Shack, housed in two converted containers in King Edward’s Bay.
Stay: Tynemouth 61 (0191 257 3687; no61.co.uk) is a smart Georgian townhouse B&B with a hidden tea garden and views over the mouth of the Tyne. Rooms from £85.
Just 15 minutes from Harwich via the Harwich Harbour Ferry, Felixstowe (one of Europe’s largest container ports) has an appeal that may not be immediately obvious – but the Suffolk town has charm by the bucket-load.
Arriving at Landguard Fort, dating back to 1621 when it was built to protect against the threat of Dutch invasion, the journey into town is almost like time travel through Britain’s maritime past – a living monument to the Great British coastline. Via Martello Tower, a 19th-century defence against Napoleon, and a disused Victorian railway station, a row of amusement arcades and fish and chip shops sits parallel with original period structures, where the two ages of English holiday collide along the seafront. An architectural feast for the eyes, gothic and Art Deco influences are well represented along this stunning promenade.
Stay: The Orwell Hotel (01394 285511; theorwellhotel.co.uk) offers individually styled classic or modern double/twin rooms from £56 a night.
A stone’s throw from the enduringly fashionable and popular destination of Brighton, nestled on the edge of the South Downs and the banks of the River Adur, Shoreham-by-Sea is well worth a visit.
Its natural beauty spots, including a picturesque beach, make it a great place for bracing walks, paddleboarding and more, but those in the know also appreciate the West Sussex town for its art. Just off the Adur, a towpath known as Riverbank is home to some 40 eclectic and artistic houseboats, in a Mad Max-esque enclave, including a barge reimagined as a Second World War bomber, decommissioned military vehicles, and a vintage fire engine. Local shops such as Neighbourhood Store and Tarmount Studios Emporium offer art, fashion, homeware and vintage and upcycled furniture among other things, while local charity shop SOLD is known for its elaborate and eye-catching window displays.
Stay: The quirky Houseboat Dodge, formed from a fire engine mounted in an upturned lifeboat, is listed on holiday rental sites (airbnb.com). From £86 per night for up to five guests.
This Dorset resort hit the headlines recently with the erection of a long-awaited statue of its famous ammonite hunter Mary Anning, but there is plenty to like here aside from feminist icons and fossils. In fact, Lyme Regis feels the most “revived” of all the resorts on this list, with searches up around 300 per cent since the pandemic, thanks to a rediscovery of its family-friendly beaches – there are seven distinct stretches – as well as its appeal as a treasure-hunting spot for dino lovers.
Its newer, non-Jurassic charms include the arts hub and community collective at the old Town Mill (townmill.org.uk) and a foodie scene centred on Dorset seafood and foraged ingredients (the hottest ticket is Lilac, lilacwine.co.uk, a second from top homegrown chef Harriet Mansell).
Stay: Decent hotels are 10 a penny in the area but Dorset House (01297 442055; dorsethouselyme.com) is a cut above. This comfortable boutique hotel is near the Dinosaurland Museum and has next-level breakfasts. Rooms from £140 a night.
The arrival of the railway helped to swell this Lancashire bayside town, formerly the village of Poulton-le-Sand, into a coastal hotspot in the late Victorian era, but since the 1960s Morecambe has retreated to a sleepy sort of place. Not for long though, as Eden Project North – the northern maritime-themed twin of the Cornish botanic gardens – is planned to open in 2024, promising to put the town firmly back on the tourist map. Take advantage of the slow pace of life while you still can.
Its bay backdrop is truly special, providing unmissable sunsets, boat trips, seal watching and seabed hikes. Plus there is a local independent music festival each July (morecambemusicfestival.uk); homemade ice creams at Northern Chocolates (northchocco.co.uk); and somewhat unlikely crustacean-themed immersive theatre at Shrimpy Shack (facebook.com/ShrimpyshackMorecambe).
Stay: The Morecambe Hotel (01524 415239; themorecambehotel.co.uk) is clean, nicely put together and comfortable, and the kids’ adventure playground on site is a bonus. Rooms from £105 a night.
Like some others on this list, Minehead became a tourist destination with the arrival of the steam train (in 1874) but unlike Morecambe it never left. The West Somerset Steam Railway is still running – now as a heritage railway – and it is one of the town’s biggest attractions. During the summer months, the wide safe beach provides perfect bucket-and-spade activities; you can download a series of local walks to discover its history and nature (minehead.storywalks.info); and after a day on the sand or out exploring Exmoor, have afternoon tea at Apple Tree Tea Rooms (appletreetearooms.com).
Stay: For an off-beat accommodation idea, try the newly launched starlit glamping site in the grounds of Croydon Hall country house hotel (01984 642200; croydonhall.co.uk) or get a room in the gorgeous country house with breakfast and access to pool and spa. From £150 per night.
A trip to Cromer puts you right in the heart of the North Norfolk coast’s Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty, with more than 56 miles of craggy cliffs and smooth beaches. Much of it is so undeveloped you might imagine yourself in 1022 rather than 2022; outside Cromer and other small towns like Wells-next-the-Sea and Sheringham, seabirds and other wildlife seem to be the main inhabitants. Cromer itself ticks all the traditional seaside boxes: fish and chips, pirate-themed play area, mini-golf. There’s even a music hall variety show on the pier, the last one in the UK.
Stay: The best sea view can be found at the Sea Marge (01263 579579; seamargehotel.co.uk) in Overstrand, an imposing Edwardian lodge set in five acres of gardens, which strikes the right balance between vintage vibes and modern conveniences. Rooms from £126 per night.
The place to come for some real peace and quiet, this Kent town has entirely escaped the redevelopment of many Edwardian seaside spots and is yet to soak up any of the hipster cool that has enveloped neighbour Folkestone. Instead, its waves lap and gulls wheel on a seemingly eternal, unchanging loop – bliss if you are serious about getting away from it all.
It’s not an ideal pick for families with young children as the shallows can become deep without warning. Instead, this is a quiet haven for anglers, cyclists or older folk who are grateful for frequent benches and snack stops on the two-mile-long promenade. On a clear day you can say bonjour to the French coast, while the sight of the sun setting on a windless, velvety sea is restoration for the soul.
Stay: The four-star Hythe Imperial Hotel (01303 267441; hytheimperial.co.uk) is unexpectedly lavish, complete with spa pool and golf course and is just one minute from the pebbly beach. Rooms from £80 a night.
Bristol’s closest seaside resort may have faded since its Victorian heyday but it still has an air of refinement and poise. Its Grade I-listed pier – once described by John Betjeman as the “most beautiful in England” – is more than 150 years old and remains completely neon and beep free.
The stroll-worthy front is lined with gardens and its old salt fields have been converted into a recreation ground, with model railway, tennis courts and skate park.
It’s not the sunniest of spots but you can cope with rainy afternoons with a trip to the Curzon (est 1912), one of the oldest continuously-running cinemas in the world, or drop in to the Theatre Shop for live performance, music and drinks.
Stay: The clifftop Walton Park Hotel (01275 874253; waltonparkhotel.co.uk) is an appropriately genteel place to stay, especially if you opt for one of the four-poster bedrooms with views across the Bristol Channel. Rooms from £71 per night.
Once a thriving holiday destination, and the scene of an even livelier one as the location for popular BBC sitcom Hi-de-Hi!, neighbouring Dovercourt’s high street has seen better days. A short walk into Old Harwich, however, reveals quaint narrow streets within a conservation area of listed buildings, some of which date back as far as the 15th century.
The jewel among the streets where former MP Samuel Pepys wrote his scandalous diaries is the Electric Palace cinema, which followed some 250 years later, but is still one of Europe’s oldest purpose-built cinemas. The stunning building with original 1911 ornamental frontage has recently undergone a major refurbishment and was even featured in the new Downton Abbey film. Its doors were re-opened in April with the help of patron and Hollywood star Clive Owen.
Stay: The Alma Inn (01255 318681; almaharwich.co.uk) has locally named rustic-chic rooms starting from £90 a night.
Unlikely as it sounds, Saltburn-by-the-Sea, which borders the industrial grittiness of Teesside, had the country’s first railway hotel (1863) with its own private platform. Which just goes to show that you should not judge a place by its location. Besides, Saltburn’s setting gives it arguably the best surfing beach on the east coast.
This lovely sweep of sand sits below grand buildings of the Upper Prom including that avant-garde Zetland Hotel (now apartments) with its Italianate design and stone lions. Neighbouring (former) Alexandra Hotel, with its white-firebrick facade, is equally striking.
Gliding between the Upper and Lower Proms, is the Victorian cliff tramway, Britain’s oldest surviving water-balanced cliff lift (the weight of the “down” carriage powers the “up” carriage). Its Swiss chalet-style timbering and scalloped eaves, in cherry red and cream, match the pier building opposite.
The pier is only half of its original length but still quietly impressive, and a good spot for catching mackerel should you so wish. From here there’s a grand view of Hunt Cliff to the east sheltering both the town and the charming Valley Gardens with woodland, Italian garden and tea room.
It may have lost the grand hotels – and there are several dodgy-looking pubs – but Saltburn harbours a quietly enterprising element. Chocolini’s, for example, produces exquisitely decorated chocolates, handmade on the premises; Lillian Daph interiors sells stylish Danish furnishings; while the Seaview Restaurant, chic in grey and sea-blue, offers dishes such as halibut with squid bisque.
Stay: The Spa Hotel (01287 622544; thespahotelsaltburn.co.uk) offers stays in the former Assembly Rooms and with striking sea views. Rooms from £145.
As crowds descend on North Devon’s picturesque cobblestones of Clovelly and the glorious beaches of Croyde and Woolacombe, a forgotten century-old slate beach town sits in the wings. Ilfracombe is filled with remarkable yet immensely weather-worn, three-storey stone townhouses. Look past the enormous Wetherspoons and the kiss-me-quick arcade and you’ll find a traditional pretty harbour with rugged cliffs and a Damien Hirst sculpture at one end of the central road through town, and an old-fashioned high street with Victorian faded grandeur – full of independent shops and a retro cinema – at the other.
Unlike its neighbours, the town has somehow escaped gentrification, though pockets of it are appearing. Get fine prints from local artist Kim Carlow’s turquoise-fronted shop (kimcarlow.com), and dine in Michelin-starred Thomas Carr 1873 (01271 867831; thomascarrdining.com), which serves seafood inside a former police station.
Stay: The Olive Branch (01271 879005; olivebranchguesthouse.co.uk) is a family-run boutique in a Georgian building in the centre of town with bags of character. Rooms from £105.
Beach-goers may have fallen out of favour with this seaside town at the foot of the South Downs – nearby Bognor and Brighton get all the attention – but its grandeur should not be ignored. Its elegant 940ft Victorian pier, opened in 1862, was instrumental in changing the reputation of the town. It turned from a smugglers’ den to a fashionable resort frequented by literary geniuses including Charles Dickens, Oscar Wilde and Jane Austen.
Vintage charm can still be enjoyed along Worthing’s five-mile promenade, dotted with century-old shelters, candy-coloured beach houses, a former 1920s bandstand and striking lido, which contained purified seawater for bathing until 1988. The pier itself is also something to behold, with its Art Deco pavilions and a tea room with panoramic views of the coastline.
East of the pier is one of Britain’s oldest working cinemas, the Dome, housed in a stunning Edwardian building opened in 1911. The original ticket hall in the entrance remains and inside is an atmospheric (supposedly haunted) main auditorium with deep red velvet interiors and balconies. After a film, pop into the nearby Crab Shack for cockle and shrimp popcorn
Stay: The Burlington (01903 211222; theburlington.net) is where Oscar Wilde supposedly penned ‘The Importance of Being Earnest’. Rooms from £132.
Contributions by Jen Offord, Sarah Warwick, Helen Pickles and Jade Bremner
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